News
15 September 2006
Abandon your corkscrews!
Continuing the hot debate, Angela Lloyd sounds out (and agrees with) some local screwcap-aficionado producers
It's impossible to escape the hot topic of bottle closures anywhere these days: debate continues in the media, at wine launches, seminars and even at the dinner table, with the most vociferous argument surrounding screwcaps versus corks.
South Africa frequently has been noted by international commentators as slow to adopt screwcaps, lagging far behind New Zealand or Australia, where every wine from the humblest to high-priced flagships are closed in this way. Having just finished my 21st tasting marathon for the John Platter Wine Guide, I have a gut feeling that, like it or not, screwcaps are at last making increasing inroads onto South African bottles of wine; Phil van Zyl, the guide's editor, agrees with me.
Two local producers have now furthered the screwcap cause by joining the International Screwcap Initiative. Constantia Uitsig and The Winery are unabashed promoters of screwcaps and are enjoying growing success and acceptance with them. A good time to find out about the state of play in South Africa: where any problem areas arise, who readily accepts this non-traditional closure, what the future holds and what actual difference does it make to the wine using a screwcap rather than a cork. Constantia Uitsig's Marketing Manager, Anetha Homan and winemaker, Andri Rousseau and co-owner of The Winery, Alex Dale provide answers to all these issues.
Commitment - almost
Constantia Uitsig first used screwcaps in 2003, bottling a portion of their regular and reserve whites and all of their premium white blend with screwcaps - the last due for release only two years later. The positive results from this move encouraged them to switch to screwcaps on their entire white wine range. The Winery started a year later, using screwcaps on some of their white wines in 2004; early-drinking reds followed in 2005; with a positive response, they moved to bottle the same vintage premium Black Rock under screwcap.
Yet neither party is using screwcaps exclusively; given their enthusiasm, I wondered why not. Homan explains that when they moved to screwcaps on their whites was the same time they introduced their red blend (previously they had bottled only varietal wines). They believed then and still do that there wouldn't be sufficient brand loyalty to use a screwcap on this wine. Dale's reason for not yet using screwcaps on their top of the range Radford Dale South African wines (the Aussie, Eden Valley Riesling does use this closure) is a more practical one: `It is simply because the French firm, Saverglass, do not yet make the Byblos bottle we use in a screwcap version. If I want it, it would mean paying for the mould - around R240 000. Naturally, I'm not prepared to do this.'
Yet again, it appears one part of local industry is not supporting another. A frustrated Andri Rousseau complains about the endless problems in being offered what he wants from local suppliers: the right bottle, in the right colour, at the right time.' The lack of competition would appear to be the problem, for when Rousseau refused to be dictated to by Consul and was about to change supplier, quite magically, we could get what we wanted.' According to Dale, there is also a quality concern: Local manufacturers might argue they meet their specifications, but these are far too broad.' He expects the situation to improve as the market demands more - otherwise imports will flourish', he warns.
Quality issues
If the bottles are one issue, quality of the screwcaps themselves is another. Factors such as bottle thread and cap forging an impermeable closure, construction of the screwcap and the wine's ability to age and, most important, the whole equipment being sufficiently sturdy not to be damaged before the seal is deliberately broken. Although Rousseau would still like to see the inner part of the screwcap improved, he concedes that the producers have made significant strides in the last three years.
Dale explains the newer screwcap design has the entire side of the capsule serving as a seal, not just the top. This covers a very significant proportion of the bottle, which also eliminates the oxidation risk cork suppliers claim can happen with screwcaps in transport, if they are knocked on the tip of the capsule.' The issue of longer-term ageing and the role oxygen plays in it is the subject of ongoing research and is an entire debate on its own!
Manufacturing drawbacks notwithstanding, both parties confirm acceptance of screwcaps is definitely growing with both casual and involved winelovers. Anetha Homan does say, however, that 90 percent of customers at the Constantia Uitsig wine shop buy into the closure only after an explanation. Pockets of resistance do exist along the chain, from producer to consumer, often because of ignorance. Homan mentions restaurateurs, when they do not know what screwcaps are all about.' After educating staff about the closure, two restaurants that initially wanted to de-list the screwcapped Constantia Uitsig wines had no problem moving stock. Dale's experience is that it's mostly traditionally minded consumers and some of the trade supplying them who back off from screwcaps, their association being with inferior, low-priced wine and, for the romantics, the lack of a pop when the bottle is opened!
Dale remarks on the positive role of UK supermarkets have played in getting consumers en masse to accept screwcaps. `With supermarkets selling almost 80 percent of all wines retailed in the UK, their support has resulted in an accelerated acceptance of screwcaps and a better understanding of why they are used.' He adds that, from this base, Now even Michelin star restaurants are requesting them.' The clear message is that gaining general acceptance for screwcaps is a team effort from all the links joining producer to consumer, the media included.
Premium choice
So how to encourage local consumers to select wines closed with screwcaps? More high-profile producers using screwcaps on their premium wines, not just second labels,' Homan suggests. It's great to see producers like Neil Ellis and Klein Constantia supporting the cause, but it would help to have more, equally admired producers such as Rustenberg and Paul Cluver using them on their premium wines.' Both Homan and Dale mention the importance of restaurateurs and sommeliers. Wines form such a big part of the whole dining out experience,' says Homan, `it's a perfect one-on-one opportunity to educate and stimulate interest.' Dale, who works with sommeliers in various parts of the world, concurs; `Restaurateurs and sommeliers are now proving to be key catalysts for change within the on-trade and with the more resistant consumers.' Dale would also like to see greater awareness of the International Screwcap Initiative objectives, via effective communication from the media.
What's the future for cork? Does it have one? Unlike California's Randall Grahm, South African producers have not yet laid it to rest. Until TCA cork taint, random oxidation and inconsistency can be eliminated, let alone the high cost, I see the future for wine cork suppliers as being pretty bleak,' Dale insists.
For my own part, I believe the ongoing switch to screwcaps has done cork the biggest favour possible. The increased number of wines in the world market has put such pressure on cork producers, they cannot ensure consistent quality. Hopefully with much of the pressure taken off them, they should be better able to harvest the cork at correct intervals and sort out the problems with TCA. From the screwcap perspective, more research is needed to understand the ageing process of wine under various closures. Eventually, the best result all round would be for both closures to prove consistent and reliable in maintaining the wine's quality and that the producer and consumer's choice would be one determined by personal preference only.
Cork versus screwcap
Initially, producers moved from cork to screwcap because of the increased incidence of cork taint, but it soon became obvious that wines closed with screwcaps maintained greater freshness and fruit than those under cork. I asked Anetha Homan and Alex Dale what differences they have noticed in the first vintages closed with screwcaps. `There is no doubt that the whites retain greater aromatic profile and taste cleaner and more focused. They also remain fresher, longer,' Dale replies without hesitation. Another benefit is that less sulphur is necessary when using screwcaps. He also mentions there's far greater difference in a shorter time between synthetic corks and screwcaps, while with natural cork there's more bottle variation. Homan maintains that, in general, wine closed under screwcap discernibly slows down the ageing process.'
To prove her point, she provided bottles of the Constantia Uitsig Chardonnay Reserve 2003 under both closures. Tasting them blind, the difference is as great as she claims. Although the screwcapped wine is slightly darker in appearance, the aromatics and flavours are very expressive, the bright acidity as fresh as a daisy. The cork-closed wine is paler, has a quiet developed bouquet; the palate is smoother, more oily in texture and although shows more dimension that the bouquet, has definite signs of oxidation. It is not over the hill but is less satisfying than the screwcapped version. It leaves me with no doubt as to which I'd choose.