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BLOOD FROM STONE
The old bush vines grown on the rugged mountain slopes of the Swartland’s Perdeberg are deeply rooted in decomposed granite soils, enabling them to cope with extreme temperatures and arid conditions throughout the year. With dedicated viticultural management, helped along by the winemaker’s craft in blending, these grapes are producing some of South Africa’s most individual wines.
Alex Dale, co-founder of The Winery of Good Hope which makes Black Rock wines from grapes grown in the Perdeberg, says that “seamlessly coaxing the best from each varietal to reflect the co-existence the vines enjoy with their rugged environment and the influences of the seasons, ensure that there is no recognisable thumbprint, only the true essence of the region”.
He says that 2006 produced highly individual Black Rock wines. “They are balanced, harmoniously integrated and multi dimensional—as great blends should be.
“It was a wonderful vintage – there were good winter rains and a long, ripening season which produced fruit of genuinely exceptional quality. Good vineyard management meant virtually no grapes were discarded at picking as there was no sunburn. Pretty ideal.”
The Black Rock red blend of Shiraz (66%), Carignan (13%), Grenache (9%), Mourvèdre (11%) and Viognier (1%) is from fruit from old bush vines, in pristine condition and, thanks to the deep root systems’ extraction of water and minerality from such a rugged landscape, there is a superb equilibrium between innate structure, natural acidity and minerality—with balanced alcohols.
Each varietal was fermented separately, either in open-top concrete or oak fermenters. Some of the Mourvèdre was co-fermented with the Shiraz. About two thirds of the blended wine was matured in barrel. Of this about 90% was in small French oak.
Dale says these winemaking techniques have contributed to making Black Rock Shiraz blend 2006 a “highly, enigmatic wine. A true blend that is as refreshing on its palate as it is by its approach”.
The Black Rock white blend 2006 is more elegant than the previous vintage, he claims. “There is a lively element of freshness and heightened minerality in the balance with this vintage.”
The three varietals are Chenin Blanc (59%), Chardonnay (39%) and Viognier (2%) and the fruit in 2006 was of exceptional quality. Yields on average 20hl/ha were low and, thanks to good vineyard management, virtually no grapes were discarded at picking.
Dale says that the advantage of fruit from old, established vines—such as the 50+-year old Chenin Blanc bush vines on the south-westerly and westerly slopes of the Perdeberg—is that distinctive minerality is maintained and there is wonderful grace and balance between the natural acidity and the alcohol levels.
A third of the Chenin Blanc was fermented in barrel and the rest in tank on its lees. The Chardonnay was entirely barrel fermented and matured and the Viognier was split equally barrel and tank. Much care is taken to ensuring that the barrels in no way over-power the wines nor mask the flavours that link the wines to their site.
The result, says Dale, is a “blend in the true sense: balanced, harmonious and multi-faceted. This is one of only a small number of premium Chenin Blanc-based blends from the Western Cape.”